I have been taking lots of notes for a big post when I get back. I will share that I started reading the absolute perfect book on the way down, Ruth Reichl's Garlic and Sapphires. I read the first hundred or so pages and loved the parts about going to restaurants in disguise and being treated with sub-standard service. It was all the armor I needed to steel myself for solo dining tonight. I think Ruth needs some of the thanks for the success of my evening.
Will try to post a few live updates tomorrow.